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 Brief Description: 

 It is a hardwood. The wood is a favorite in Western North America.

 There are two major grades of Alder, Character alder or Knotty Alder which as

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Alder is a good alternative to Cherry.  Unlike Cherry it does not change it's color through oxidization as does Cherry. 

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Brief Description: 

 It is a hardwood. The tree is fast growing producing mostly white wood.

 However, there are some green streaks in the appearance.

 White is not guaranteed. It can be stained but is generally paint grade.

 It tends to be quite hairy. American Poplar is an excellent base for a wood overlay. 

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Maple is a good alternative for clear coating or staining light colors. This is due to the fact that there is not the green tinge or streaks in Maple

 and the stain does not absorb too deep expanding the wood fibers. Like American Poplar, Maple is also a hardwood in spite of its' name

  implying that it is a softwood (it is softer than Northern Hard maple). Maple is not as hairy, thus a smoother texture to provide even staining. 

 Use Benite or another  wood conditioner to seal up the wood pores before staining. 

 No: There are green tinges or even pieces that are very green in color.  American Poplar is sold as is within the product mix. 

 Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run.

 No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Brief Description: 

 It is an expensive hardwood for furniture making.

 The tree is slow growing producing mostly  red brown wood.

 Cherry stains well. 

 There is a mixture of sapwood and heartwood for most  manufactured goods unless specified. 

 Cherry will darken with age, unlike Alder that stays relatively consistent over time.

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Stains very well.  For economy, one might consider using Maple with a Cherry Stain as a good alternative. Cherry or Maple are not  hairy, thus a

 smoother texture to provide even staining. 

 Unless you specifiy all heartwood or all sapwood, there will be variable pieces of various colors.  Expect to pay much more for premium wood

 matched.   Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run.

 No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Brief Description: 

 Like the name, Knotty Pine has knots.  It is a rustic wood and is paint grade or stained rustic. It is sold as is.

  Knotty pine is soft and grainy and yes has knots.

 FAQ: Can I Just Stain Knotty Pine?

 No: The sap from the knots will always "bleed" through with Knotty Pine.  If you want to paint it Knotty Pine

 1) shellac the knots first and let it dry for a day

 2) prime with a good quality primer and let it dry for a day

 3) Paint the product with high quality paint.

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 If you like the rustic look, knotty pine is wonderful and ages gracefully.  It is a wood that shows the rawness of nature.

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Clear Pine:  There are a few knots in Clear Pine - Do not expect a fully clear piece of wood  

  Southern Soft Maple:   This wood comes mostly from the Southern USA.   It is very brown-red in color and has little grain.

  It is excellent for making kitchen cabinetry, furniture, and carvings.  Although the wood is very hard, it is softer than hard maple.

  Both are hardwoods.  The tree grows fast and can be harvested and is a renewable resource. It is excellent for painting and staining.  

 Northern Soft Maple:

  This wood comes mostly from Southern Canada & northern USA.

  It is very white in color and has little grain. It is excellent for making kitchen cabinetry, furniture, and carvings. 

  Although the wood is very hard, it is softer than hard maple. Both are hardwoods.  The tree grows fast and can

  be harvested and is a renewable resource. It is excellent   for painting and staining.  

  FAQ: Can I use Maple outside?

 No:  It is not to be used for exterior applications as it will rot very quickly. For exterior use, one could consider Pine.

 The best wood for exterior use is Cedar. 

   Yes: One could consider White Pine as it is has more grain but maintains a white appearance.

  FAQ: Is there a wood with the same grain but darker?

  Yes: One could consider southern soft maple as it resembles cherry but with less grain.

   FAQ: Are there variances in color and grain?

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run.

  No two pieces are identical.  Sap Maple is the inner part of the log and is more white - premium priced  Heartwood Maple is the outer part

  of the log with greater variances

 FAQ: Should I stain before clear Coating?

 All wood has grain variation, marks, knots etc. It is suggested to fill cracks with wood filler, sand and prepare the wood with a pre-stainer.

 A light sanding is applied after the pre-stainer.  Following this use a similar color  to the natural wood before clear coating.

  This will even out the natural inconsistencies of the wood. Finally clear coat, sand between coats, clear coat again a few times. 

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Brief Description: 

 It is a hardwood. The tree is slow growing producing mostly red brown wood.

 Red oak is very hard and grainy. It appears to be rougher than other woods. 

 When stained the grain is enhanced greatly. 

 Red Oak is very hard and is difficult to get great results in carving.

 Red Oak carvings are very beautiful because of their more rustic look.

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Red Oak stains very well.  You may have to stain it a few times to get the right color as Red Oak is hard and may not absorb the

 stain that fast.  Some finishers suggest a mix of stain and glaze.

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Brief Description: 

  Linden has the consistency of soft maple.  

  It is a type of basswood and is very white in color.

  There is little grain. 

  It is relatively soft and is easy to carve unlike harder woods like oak.

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 Due to it's white appearance and little grain, this wood paints very well. However for staining we would suggest Maple, Alder, or Oak.

 If you choose to stain Linden, be aware that it very porous and the wood cells will expand creating a rough appearance.  Use Benite or another

 wood conditioner to seal up the wood pores before staining.    A harder wood like Maple, does not allow the stain to absorb in such a manner.  

 Some finishers suggest a mix of stain and glaze.

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Brief Description:

 A powdered wood overlay is applied to the surface of a wood base.  American Poplar is often used  because of it's neutral light background.   

 This provides a high relief profile that can easily be stained or paint faux finish.  It is not carved. The composite is a mix of glues and wood powder.

 MonRealeTM is a registered Trademark and marketing label of White River Hardwoods for this process

 FAQ: How is it made?

 The wood overlay is actual wood powder mixed with a bonding agent. This product is not made

 from molds, it is actually poured onto the surface of the wood. Know as "comp", patterns are

 regular but there can be slight variations due to the manufacturing process.  It is not Carved Wood.

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 The wood overlay stains very well especially with darker colors.  Because the wood overlay is

 different than the base wood, a couple of coats of stain would have to be employed.  Clear coating

 of a wood overlay once stained and the American Poplar base would amplify the color variances.  Light color

 stains would have to be applied a few times to mute the color of the overlay. It is not suitable for just clear coating.

 FAQ: Am I wasting money by ordering the Overlay on Mahogany?

 Probably yes: Since most of the background wood is covered by the overlay, most of the expensive

 background wood will not be seen.  If mahogany is used, for example, the wood overlay will be lighter

 in color to the background wood.   This may not be a problem if darker stains are used.

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

 Brief Description:

 A powdered wood overlay is applied to the surface of a wood base.  Maple, Basswood or Poplar is often used  because of it's neutral light

 background.    This provides a high relief profile that can easily be stained or paint faux finish.  It is not carved. The composite is a mix of glues and wood powder.

 FAQ: How is it made?

 The wood overlay is actual wood powder mixed with a bonding agent. This product is not made

 from molds, it is actually poured onto the surface of the wood. Know as "comp", patterns are

 regular but there can be slight variations due to the manufacturing process.  It is not Carved Wood.

 FAQ: How does it Stain?

 The wood overlay stains very well especially with darker colors.  Because the wood overlay is

 different than the base wood, a couple of coats of stain would have to be employed.  Clear coating

 of a wood overlay once stained and the American Poplar base would amplify the color variances.  Light color

 stains would have to be applied a few times to mute the color of the overlay. It is not suitable for just clear coating.

 FAQ: Am I wasting money by ordering the Overlay on Mahogany?

 Probably yes: Since most of the background wood is covered by the overlay, most of the expensive

 background wood will not be seen.  If mahogany is used, for example, the wood overlay will be lighter

 in color to the background wood.   This may not be a problem if darker stains are used.

 Yes: Remember all wood is a natural product and there are always variances

 in color and grain texture from piece to piece or within one run. No two pieces are identical.  

 FAQ: Is there something you can tell me about commercial wiping stains?

 Yes: Always read the manufacturer's warning labels and recommended uses.   Remember, Stains are chemicals and they act differently with variable

 products.  Stains can be applied with a brush or rag.  If you use a rag, when you are finished with it do not throw it into a bag (sealed or otherwise), or

 let multiple rags pile up.  Stains with linseed oil in them can spontaneously combust - yes catch fire before your eyes!   Dispose of rags inside a metal

 can filled with water.  Take it to a site for hazardous wastes for disposal once your project is finished.  Never through old stains or solvents down the

 sink or toilet.

  Brief Description:

  ResinMoldTM is made from a syntactic polymer compound with a cellular structure quite similar to wood and may be handled much the same as wood and

  stains same as wood.  It is fairly rigid to touch but still flexible.   There are 1000's of profiles that match their wood and ArchPolymerTM counterparts. 

  It can be used for Concave and  Convex Curves and Arches.   Even complex crowns mouldings with dentils can be made from for these applications.

  ResinMoldTM is water, rot and insect resistant, thus it is very suitable for wet areas. It is great for Interior and Exterior applications.

  For most profiles it is custom made per order, although certain profiles may be stocked.

 All profiles are available in Straight lengths.  Perfect for swimming pool applications or wet basements. For some huge radius curves

 the concave or convex curve is so slight that straight lengths will be supplied as the product is flexible.

 There are Crowns, Baseboards, Casings, Wainscoting, and Quarter Rounds available in ResinMoldTM.

 For tight radius applications, consult with one of our consultants regarding the suitability of the profile and it's ability to be created to go around tight corners.

 You may be asked to supply a cardboard template to produce the mold. You must supply us with a drawing of the application. 

 For large radius applications,  a template should not be necessary especially for baseboard or quarter-rounds.

 There are Crowns, Casings, Wainscoting available in ResinMoldTM. 

 You must supply us with a drawing of the arch that you want to have made. 

 We require the mid point Rise and Horizontal run measurement.   We also need the  various rise measurements at 12" increments to draw the arch on CAD. 

 This will provide the correct rise of the true arch or eyebrow.  In certain cases you will be required to supply us with a cardboard template of the arch. 

 Tell us if us want both sides of a door or window frame created.

 Circles are actually two mirrored arches. An example of a circle application would be a ceiling ring to enlarge a ceiling medallion or resin to go around a circular

  window or column.  You must supply us with a drawing of the circle that you want to have made. 

 We require the radius of the true circle or circumference.  Tell us if us want both sides of a door or window frame created.

 We require a 12 Foot piece of the profile you want to match in order to create a mold for your molding. All custom orders are priced by our custom

 department. 

 In association with Martin Richards Design we can create on CAD a unique custom profile of frieze or any molding.  We would need to create a custom

 wood carved plug, then molds, then the final ResinMoldTM product.   All custom orders are priced by our custom department. 

 In order to serve you better you will be required to supply us with a drawing. For tight radius applications we need a paper or cardboard template.

 For most profiles the minimum order is 6 Feet with maximum lengths close to 12 Feet.  Every profile has a different length option.

 We will calculate the amount of ResinMoldTM required with a modest extra amount once we receive a drawing from you.  A written quote will be produced

 and faxed or emailed to you with a payment form.  We do not take verbal order. Remember to tell us if you require the profile for each side of the arch or

 stairway.

 For a tight radius, warm up the product to allow maximum flexibility. 

 Cutting: ResinMoldTM cellular composition cuts and machines the same as wood. Any saw, router, shaper, or molding machine may be used as needed. 

 Nailing:  It can be nailed or pined with a nail gun without pre-drilling - the same as the wood counterpart.

               On arches we recommend starting at the center and moving outwards to the ends. 

 Gluing:   It is necessary to use a quality construction adhesive before nailing. Run a continuous line of adhesive when applying. Any glue or adhesive that

 will bond to wood will bond to ResinMoldTM. The back side of each part is sanded to create a better bonding surface. Unsanded ResinMoldTM moldings

 are not always receptive to adhesive and can cause adhesion failure during installation. 

 Finishing:  It is comes primed and can be Painted or Stained

 Staining:  ResinMoldTM flexible molding cannot be stained the same as wood. ResinMoldTM is primed with an all purpose, porous primer.

 For best results, add a clear glazing compound to the wood stain. Normal ratio of mixing the glazing compound with the stain is one part glazing liquid to two

 parts of stain. Stains for synthetic products are specially made to work over these surfaces.  In doubt, always test a small section of the moulding before

 staining the entire piece. 

   COPYRIGHT Imperial Productions & Distribution Inc. Apr 1, 2003  all rights reserved